Ipso Olfacto

fragrant musings


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My Top Boudoir Scents

“Boudoir” is one of my favorite scent genres. Even before my more involved fragrance exploration, I was always drawn towards anything evocative of vintage glamour: waxy lipstick, warm face powder, boozy vanilla… These qualities are perfume at its most “perfumey” and womanly, embodying that grown-up, elegant mystique that gets many young girls intrigued by the mysterious elixirs on their mother’s dressing tables. Although, my mom never wore perfume, so I think the perfume bottle-shaped hole in my heart was extra large in my case. So, I’ve acquired a number of boudoir scents over the years that have filled that olfactory void:

First up, we have Classique by Jean Paul Gaultier:

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Classique is a classic boudoir scent – the EDP, that is. The EDP is harder to find than the EDT, but it’s worth it. Its a rich, complex vanilla that’s evocative of a burlesque dancer dolling herself up for the night. There’s heady orange blossom and orchid, boozy vanilla, and a heavy dose of spicy rum. It’s rich, spicy, a bit powdery, but surprisingly not too heavy or overwhelming. It has a bit of a vintage nail varnish thing going on that tickles your nostrils a bit- back when nail polish was scented. I can’t help but think of Jennifer Lawrence’s character in American Hustle:

Next up, we have Lipstick On by Maison Martin Margiela:

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If Classique is a burlesque dancer getting ready for a wild night, then Lipstick On is her more introverted sister. Lipstick On is a very evocative scent – it opens with waxy iris and vanillic powder that vividly replicates the scent of vintage lipstick. Heliotrope provides a lovely touch of almond and cherry tartness, while rice powder adds a “starchiness” rather than talcum-powderiness. The composition is kept from being too sweet and soft with the addition of bitter galbanum. The overall feel is very warm- it feels like the olfactory equivalent of blushing. Absolutely gorgeous, and a must-smell for anyone into makeup scents.

Next up is another cosmetic scent: Misia by Chanel:

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which I sadly only have this adorable miniature of. Misia has that same warm, makeup quality of Lipstick On, but is much more powdery thanks to a heavy emphasis on violets. There’s also a pronounced tart rasberry sweetness that makes the composition even more delightfully girly. Misia truly evokes the smell of vintage face powder, with just a hint of lipstick.

A kind of runner-up is Angel Liqueur de Parfum by Mugler:

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It’s not as obviously “boudoir” as the others, but it still embodies that spirit. As you can imagine, this flanker is boozier than the original. It’s much drier, and has a subtle woodyness that recalls an aged liqueur.  Most prominent, though, is the honey. Non-sweet, slightly animalic honey. It’s drop dead gorgeous, and, in true Mugler fashion, incredibly potent. Perfect for a femme fatale putting on her “war paint” for the night.

I love how some fragrances have the ability to evoke a specific feeling or place. No matter how casual your lifestyle, being able to access a little vintage glamour via a scent is such an enjoyable form of “time travel!”

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Womanity- A Refreshingly Weird Summer Scent

 

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Womanity by Thierry Mugler is an infamously weird, wacky fragrance that actually isn’t that weird. It’s certainly unique- there’s not really anything else out there that smells like it. But there are so many overwrought reviews of this one that insist that its downright disgusting- that it smells of rotten fish, puke, and/or “dirty vagina.” Hoookay. No. (And uh, maybe see a gyno?) What Womanity is is an incredibly unique, fresh beach scent that conveys summer without resorting to cheesy coconut/suntan lotion vibes.

I was very late to the game in trying Womanity– I bought my bottle just last summer after acquiring and subsequently falling in love with my sample. The rather graphic reviews only made me want to try it more – after all, I was already a huge devotee to the other Mugler creation with a stinky reputation: Angel. I was morbidly excited to try my sample, bracing myself for something nasty and… hmmm… yeah, it’s a bit metallic… there’s a sweetness that’s a tad ripe… definite saltiness… but nothing gross. In fact, what I was met with was a lovely fresh, green, woody sweetness wrapped in that same cold-metallic-fruity quality found in Muglers Alien. Womanity has this weirdly metallic, sour nuance that reminds me of that feeling you get in your mouth after sucking on a sour warhead candy- it kind of makes your mouth water.  That’s thanks, I guess, to the full fig lineup featured in the notes- fig tree, fig leaf, and fig fruit, but the result isn’t exactly naturalistic. The metallic sweetness combines with an incredibly vivid, not aquatic, salty sea air accord. They call it “caviar” in the note listing, but it really feels like a cool, fresh beach breeze. Completely refreshing.

Now, even though I already stated that I completely disagree that Womanity smells like “dirty pussy”… I actually get where these people are coming from (hyperbolic as they are.) I think it’s pretty apparent that the concept behind Womanity was, shall we say ” the scent of a woman.” The pink juice, focus on the fig tree, the scent’s metallic nuance in the opening, the fact that ITS CALLED WOMANITY- yeah, they’re not exactly hiding it. But Womanity is no Secretions Magnifique- it doesn’t veer into vulgarity. Its just a lovely perfume inspired by something human. Like how Chanel No.5 (with both its soapy aldehydes and animalic civet) was inspired by the smell of a woman’s clean skin – even clean skin will have something dirty in there, because that’s what makes it human.

With Womanity, Mugler set out to make the first “savory” gourmand. The sweet/salty juxtaposition certainly provides that, but I’d say that what makes Womanity truly weird is how its a (summer!) gourmand that also feels (to some, vulgarly) human. In a world where summer fragrance options are mostly limited to generic fresh-ey citrus aquatics, Womanity, in all its ripe, metallic, salty glory is, ironically, a true breath of fresh air.

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My Top 6 Summer Gourmands!

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The phrase “Summer Gourmand” may seem like an oxymoron- but this ride or die gourmie has been able to find plenty of satisfyingly yummy gourmands to get me through the summer heat. The secret is gourmand notes that are sweet without being sticky, paired with fresh, light notes like mint, fresh fruit, or green/medicinal accords. Below are 6 of my favorite yummy summer picks (clockwise from bottom left):

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First up are the EDT and EDP from Salvatore Ferragamo’s Signorina line. These are what I call delightfully generic. Yeah, they’re kind of just typical fruitchouli gourmands, but they’re so adorably girly, and actually quite distinct. And that bottle? Total vanity table eye-candy. The EDP is a lovely creamy strawberry-flan type of smell, along with some well-behaved patchouli and a hint of what smells like a tea note (maybe the peony and pink pepper?) The EDT is a crisp, milky rice pudding with a hint of tartness thanks to litchi fruit, along with a fresh watery rose accord.  Ciao Bella!

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Next up is a recent love of mine: Replica: Tea Escape from Maison Martin Margiela. This is such a specific, highly unique fragrance. Ever had matcha (japanese green tea) flavored bubble tea, or green tea mochi ice cream? That’s basically what this smells like. It has that distinct green earthiness of matcha, combined with a lovely, milky sweet rice accord. A hint of mint in the opening adds some more palpable freshness.

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Now we’re gonna take a right into Mugler-ville, because when you want great gourmands, there’s not really a better house to turn to than Thierry Mugler. First up is Angel Eau Sucre- which is kind of Angel for people who hate Angel- in that it doesn’t really smell like it at all. But, that’s okay, because it’s wonderful in its own right. An incredibly accurate tart, sweet berry sorbet accord swirls with toasted meringue and light patchouli to create a sweet scent that feels like a refreshing, cold dessert.

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Our next stop in Mugler-ville is the somewhat controversial Womanity. I think some people not really knowing what to think of its “caviar” note is solely responsible for some of Womanity’s vocal bad reviews saying that it smells “like rotten fish,” because there’s absolutely nothing fishy about it (caviar doesn’t even smell/taste like fish, you plebes!) Womanity is simply a lovely, sweet, breezy beach scent. It has fruity notes of fig, as well as green and woody notes combined with, yes, a “caviar” accord, which just translates to the smell of fresh, salty sea air. It’s a bit weird, in true Mugler fashion, but still totally wearable.

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And last, we have Angel Eau de Toilette– the lighter, fresher version of Angel. For fans of the EDP, this one hits all the right beats while using milder, easier to wear notes. Fresh crisp berries, nutty praline, and clean, mentholated patchouli mingle together to create a much more well-behaved, and yes, summer appropriate, Angel.

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What about you? Let me know your favorite summer gourmands, or just general summer scents, in the comments!


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New Fragrance Hype Train: Aura by Mugler

Looks like Christmas came early this year, as Mugler has announced a brand spanking new fragrance to add to their Angel, Alien, Womanity, and Innocent lineup. Even after such an amazing release like Angel Muse recently, I think even diehard Mugler fans were getting a bit of “flanker fatigue.” I mean, the flankers tend to be good to great, but c’mon. There are only so many flankers one girl can have, ya dig? That’s why I’m so pumped for a completely new release from one of my absolute favorite houses.

First of all, can we talk about that bottle? The emerald green is gorgeous, and it immediately reminded me of something out of a Zelda game:

The green is likely a nod to it being a green fragrance, as its notes (according to fragrantica) are:

Top: rhubarb leaf

middle: orange blossom

base: bourbon vanilla and “wolfwood”- whatever tf that’s supposed to be.

Rhubarb is a note that I feel has been subtly trending recently, as in Hermes Rhubarb Escalarte and the enduringly popular D&G Anthology L`Imperatrice 3. I’m so ready to have a rhubarb based scent in my collection- it’s such a unique way to add some tart, quasi-fruitiness without going the typical fruity route. And I’m sure the fact that it’s rhubarb leaf will make it more on the green side. It doesn’t look like this is a straight up gourmand, but I’m already seeing some Alien “sweet and juicy but not a gourmand” vibes from the fact that there is bourbon vanilla in the base. And “wolfwood?” I am a woody fragrance lover, so I’m intrigued to see how that manifests.

Apparently, a green aura (according to totally legit website “reiki-for-holistic-health.com“) represents:

“…growth and balance, and most of all, something that leads to change.”

Aura is definitely a big change for Mugler. Their last original release was 7 years ago with 2010’s Womanity, so I think we’re all ready to be sporting green auras this year!