Ipso Olfacto

fragrant musings


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My Top Boudoir Scents

“Boudoir” is one of my favorite scent genres. Even before my more involved fragrance exploration, I was always drawn towards anything evocative of vintage glamour: waxy lipstick, warm face powder, boozy vanilla… These qualities are perfume at its most “perfumey” and womanly, embodying that grown-up, elegant mystique that gets many young girls intrigued by the mysterious elixirs on their mother’s dressing tables. Although, my mom never wore perfume, so I think the perfume bottle-shaped hole in my heart was extra large in my case. So, I’ve acquired a number of boudoir scents over the years that have filled that olfactory void:

First up, we have Classique by Jean Paul Gaultier:

Classique WEB

Classique is a classic boudoir scent – the EDP, that is. The EDP is harder to find than the EDT, but it’s worth it. Its a rich, complex vanilla that’s evocative of a burlesque dancer dolling herself up for the night. There’s heady orange blossom and orchid, boozy vanilla, and a heavy dose of spicy rum. It’s rich, spicy, a bit powdery, but surprisingly not too heavy or overwhelming. It has a bit of a vintage nail varnish thing going on that tickles your nostrils a bit- back when nail polish was scented. I can’t help but think of Jennifer Lawrence’s character in American Hustle:

Next up, we have Lipstick On by Maison Martin Margiela:

lipstick on WEB

If Classique is a burlesque dancer getting ready for a wild night, then Lipstick On is her more introverted sister. Lipstick On is a very evocative scent – it opens with waxy iris and vanillic powder that vividly replicates the scent of vintage lipstick. Heliotrope provides a lovely touch of almond and cherry tartness, while rice powder adds a “starchiness” rather than talcum-powderiness. The composition is kept from being too sweet and soft with the addition of bitter galbanum. The overall feel is very warm- it feels like the olfactory equivalent of blushing. Absolutely gorgeous, and a must-smell for anyone into makeup scents.

Next up is another cosmetic scent: Misia by Chanel:

misia web

which I sadly only have this adorable miniature of. Misia has that same warm, makeup quality of Lipstick On, but is much more powdery thanks to a heavy emphasis on violets. There’s also a pronounced tart rasberry sweetness that makes the composition even more delightfully girly. Misia truly evokes the smell of vintage face powder, with just a hint of lipstick.

A kind of runner-up is Angel Liqueur de Parfum by Mugler:

Angel Liqueuer WEB

It’s not as obviously “boudoir” as the others, but it still embodies that spirit. As you can imagine, this flanker is boozier than the original. It’s much drier, and has a subtle woodyness that recalls an aged liqueur.  Most prominent, though, is the honey. Non-sweet, slightly animalic honey. It’s drop dead gorgeous, and, in true Mugler fashion, incredibly potent. Perfect for a femme fatale putting on her “war paint” for the night.

I love how some fragrances have the ability to evoke a specific feeling or place. No matter how casual your lifestyle, being able to access a little vintage glamour via a scent is such an enjoyable form of “time travel!”

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Fragonard Miranda (EDT)- A Non-Suntan Lotion Coconut Scent!

miranda 3 WEB

Sweet, milky vanilla scents aren’t just for wintertime! As you all know, my penchant for sweet, rich gourmands often is at odds with the blistering heat of Arizona summers. Miranda to the rescue! From the classic French house of Fragonard, Miranda is a perfect contradiction, in that it manages to be an indulgently creamy, vanilla and coconut scent while also feeling fresh and breezy.

In the opening of Miranda, I get a green, non-sweet citrus zing. It almost feels waxy, like smelling the skin or the rind of an unripe lime.  Then, a milky, sweet coconut note emerges. It’s not heavy or syrupy – just that light, milky sweetness of opening a fresh coconut. The vanilla shows up to add sweet, gourmand delight. It’s not a cheap smelling vanilla, but it’s definitely a gourmand, almost ice-cream-like one.  As Miranda dries down, the vanilla gets more rich, and some oppoponax (sweet myrrh) adds a lovely balsalmic, resinous sweetness that isn’t too cloying. Some light white florals are in the mix somewhere, but don’t emerge in any pronounced way. At the end of the day,  Miranda really is all about the vanilla and coconut, but the secondary players (waxy citrus, light florals, resins) are just enough to prevent it from being a more generic coconut suntan lotion type of scent.

Miranda is also rather light – you can kind of just spray away with it, without worrying about choking people out. It’s certainly not a body spray or anything, it’s just not a terribly dense or monstrous scent- I tend to get around 4-5 hours out of it. This lightness makes Miranda perfect for the summer heat, but it can certainly be worn year round. And at around 60 bucks for a huge, 200 ml (!) bottle, this summer indulgence can be enjoyed with no guilt.